I have fooled myself—as I must—that I am safe. But a dog and a sleepy man in a drizzly dawn prove me wrong.
When I come in to breakfast a little before eight, my interpreter looks worried. He scowls as he scrutinizes his cell phone, as if he doesn’t use it often. And he paces up […]
“Don’t eat that!”
I have just expressed a desire to order my first helping of plov, the Uzbek national dish of rice and various combinations of vegetables, fruit, nuts, and meat—each region proud of its unique concoction.
“It’s too heavy, too oily, for your American stomach. Work up to it,” says my guide, Nail, in his version […]